brat style motorcycle honda cb360 1976 bik nos bottle stretched extended swing arm

brat style motorcycle honda cb360 1976 bik nos bottle stretched extended swing arm
click this pic to go to 1st original post.

My first motorcycle.

Please send pics and a bit of background about your own 360 project.

This is the bike I started with a stock 1976 Honda CB360t. The official "BEFORE" pics

I cannibalized the front forks, drum brake and gas tank from this 69 CL350 Scrambler.

Slideshow by "Motion Photos"

link to the slide show pics posted. click here

Crank up the volume and enjoy the VID....

I enjoy being a citizen of the
United States of America.
I would like to say to all the Governments/ people in the world that oppress women, by denying them human rights.
"YES, I believe you are stupid."
And not just women but every Human being has the right to be the best they can be, and enjoy this life as much as they see fit.

tank badge

Friday, April 18, 2014

I think I may be done w these carbs.

I do not recommend you use these numbers for your own bike.  It could be way to lean and cause damage.  this is only a test.  Quite literally it may turn out to be a "trial by fire"  I am fully prepared to toss this machine into a dumpster and then throw the dumpster off a cliff and into a lake.

I got out of bed at 3am.  Went to the garage and rejetted these Keihins,  I believe this is my fix for this particular pair of carbs on my particular CB360.
I will know more after a test ride this evening.
I do not recommend these numbers for your own machine.

stock sized Keyster needles
jbm ind. diaphragms
floats at 21mm
Keyster pilots #35
Keihin primaries #55
Keihin secondaries #110  
According to the O2 sensor I have installed on my machine.  I have found after setting the air fuel mix to 12.5+ to 1 w the bike on its side stand.  Once I climb on and stand it up right, it drops to around 11.3 to 1.  If this O2 gauge can be trusted???    

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Waiting for the 55s

I am currently waiting for the 55s to arrive from  

So, I have been piddling around the house.

Freed these poor bastards from the dingy, fume filled environment of the Garage.  These sorry looking things are whats left of my Venus Flytraps after the 6 month winter storage.
I am amazed to see some green starting to show.
Got a bung welded on the right side pipe.  So I can swap O2 sensor and check the health of both carbs.
Went to ebay and found the front brake light switch I was needing.A good $12.31 spent.
I got it here... brake switch
Fits and functions perfectly.  
Best of all "free shipping"  and it got here fast.
Fried up Ribeyes on the Weber.
My little doggie sits and waits patiently for his.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

Chief Transmission, Good and Honest guys.

click to visit chiefs site

Thank goodness for honest people w integrity. 

My wife and I were told, by our local mechanic we trust, our Subaru Forester required a brand new transmission at $3000.00. However he doesn’t do transmission replacement. So, the phone calls started, trying to locate a shop that would even work on a Subaru. 
Chief transmission, ( a small shop we had never heard of) stepped up to the task.
Pissed off, but, prepared to squeeze $3000 dollars out of my Visa card. We dropped the keys off w Bart, he seemed friendly and courteous. Within a couple hours he called us back. He and Rob had found the problem and had it fixed!!! No new transmission needed. At a fraction of the original estimate!!!
Now, I am not saying Bart and Rob will perform miracles in every case. However, in this particular instance they had every opportunity to take advantage of a situation and being honest guys, they did the honest thing.
I will continue doing business w Chief Transmission. And I will encourage anyone to check with them first when in need of auto repair.

Thanks guys!!!

Sunday, April 6, 2014

Jetting, part 30,456

I changed jetting again this morning.

21mm floats
34 pilots
58 main primaries
107 main secondaries
stock needles

She performed super.  with one big "but"

But, once hot, she would die on take off.

So, now I got...

21mm floats
35 pilots
58 main primaries
107 main secondaries
stock needles

Now she runs great and takes off without a hitch.  She has a bit of a rich spot at 3000 rpm in 2nd gear at 30 mph.  But for now I think I can deal with it.

I would like to try a pair of 55 main primaries and go 110 or 112 w the secondaries.  But I dont have any, at this time.

So, it is what it is.

Here are the latest glamour shots of the ratty thing.  Maybe I need to go back to the red engine.  I really did like that.  Pretty boring looking at the gray, silver and black.


Saturday, April 5, 2014

Set phasers to "FUN"

I do not recommend you use these numbers for your own bike.  It could be way to lean and cause damage.  this is only a test.  Quite literally it may turn out to be a "trial by fire"

Since removing the modified carbs and pod filters and taking my bike back to its stock configuration.  I have had trouble w a rich stumble in the midrange ( 3000- 4500) rpm.

(I do plan on reinstalling the "crazyPJ" modified carbs and Uni-filter pods, later this summer.  I am going to send my modified pair back to him, his recipe has changed a bit since he last had mine done.  The man is nothing less than a carb genius.)

For someone w my limited experience w carbs, jetting these things can be really frustrating. 
But I have found a tool that actually makes it a whole lot easier and so far, pretty fun!

Innovate Motorsports 3795 Complete Wideband Gauge Kit 
This kit is actually intended for a car.  But it seems to work on Honda CB360s too.  

I just hooked it up temporary ty-wrap fashion.  So once I get the jetting dialed in I can simply cut a couple ty-wraps and viola,  The whole thing comes off the bike and on the shelf for the next time I want to check her.

Had Don at Dons Marathon weld the sensor bung on the pipe.  He's a much better welder than I.  

Coiled the long "car length" cables around the tail light and tied it on.  Its a breeze to hook up, just a single switched hot wire, 2 grounds, and a single feed wire from the unit to the gauge.  I went with plugs so they are a cinch to remove.
BAM !  The reads are super fast and real time.  its kinda "bouncy"  I'm sure caused by the single cylinder/open glass pack configuration.  On a V-8 it would work alot more smoothly.  But, Its getting the job done for me.  

The kit also includes a plug.

I was afraid by running the 60 main secondaries I had her a bit lean.  But, found she is still rich throughout the whole circuit.  running around 11.5,  and as low as 10 during WOT acceleration.  

I would like to see her cruising between 12.5-13 at 65mph in 6th gear.

For what its worth, I have read "ONLINE" a 2 cylinder, air cooled. carburetted engine should not exceed 13.5 EVER,  It will get too hot.

the instructions state, it may not be accurate at idle with open mufflers.  But, Im not seeing any problems.

I do not recommend you use these numbers for your own bike.  It could be way to lean and cause damage.  this is only a test.

I still have changes to make but she is running pretty darn good.

The stock configuration is...
floats 18.5mm
pilot jet = 35
main primary = 68
main secondary = 110
stock needle

My current carb configuration is...

Numbers read...
Cruising tween 11 - 11.5
accel WOT 10.5 - 11

floats at 21mm
pilot jet = 35
main primary = 58 (not a typo)
main secondary = 110
stock needle

In the morning I am gonna change...

floats 21mm
pilot jet = 34
main primary = 58
main secondary = 107
stock needle

My targets are...
Idle 12.5 
cruising 12.5 - 13, 65 mph in 6th gear approx 4700 rpm, "I think"
WOT never exceeding 13.5

I do not recommend you use these numbers for your own bike.  It could be way to lean and cause damage.  this is only a test.

Saturday, March 29, 2014

this is a guess, it is only a guess.

OK, here is where I am at.  With the stock jetting.  35, 68, 110. & floats set to 18.5mm

Here is what I got.  
runs fine,  Idle - 4000 rpm.
rich and sputtering, 4000 - 5000 rpm
runs fine,  5000 rpm up.

  Seems to me, once the needle rises enough to hit the taper.  The addition of the main secondary is happening to soon in the rpm range.  She is receiving too much fuel to soon.  However, the 110 main secondary seems to be fine above 5000.

So,  In order to calm the rich area, I raised the floats to 21mm, installed 60 main primaries.  I did a plug chop at 5000 and the plugs went from black to white.  runs good,   however,  Afraid she may be running too lean.  I installed the #62 main primaries.  Again, I found she is sputters (less) but still rich in the 4 -5000 range.

I dont know enough about reading plugs.  And I am tired of guessing if she is too lean.
I ordered this tool...

Also, I have drawn up a custom needle.  

Remember this is also an uneducated guess.  I have no idea what I am doing.

My thinking being, this design will hold off the addition of the main secondary,  allowing the primary to stand alone until she hits a more appropriate rate of consumption.

If you are an air cooled, inline twin expert...Please feel free to share your ideas in the comment section, below.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

I hates me some timings. Bill makes it easy.

Found a super write up from a guy named Bill I believe he originally posted it on  I used this sheet and checked mine this morning...found it was off just a click.  and easily adjusted the right gap and got her set up perfectly. 

If you are Bill, 

First I want to thank you for making these instructions.  This is super info and needs to be shared as much as possible.  

Secondly, I am posting this without your permission.  If you would please, contact me at .  And I will ask your permission at that time.  If you rather not have it posted here simply let me know and I will remove it.  ASAP.

PDF click here

Ignition Timing - Honda 180-Degree Twins
First thing to do is make a quick test light - I used a 12 volt indicator bulb from a speedo.
Test leads with alligator clips make hookup easy....

The point plate and assembly looks like this -

Behind it, attached to the camshaft and spinning rapidly, is the spark advancer unit.
The one pictured is pretty well funkified, needs a good cleaning........

This is old-school stuff, a purely mechanical device.
As you can see, the foot of the point rides on the outer sleeve (which is eccentric) of the advancer sleeve - this levers the point open and closed.
As the advancer spins faster and faster, centrifugal force causes the little weight things to pivot out against the pressure of the springs. As they do, their other ends cause the outer sleeve (with the lobes) to rotate, advancing the timing.
At about 3,700-4,000 rpm or so the timing should be fully advanced.

The whole advancer can be disassembled pretty easily for cleaning - the sleeve just sort of wiggles off - it is possible to put it back together 180 degrees out of whack, so you have to pay attention to that.

The Procedure (Static Timing)

Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the round alternator cover, and use a 14mm wrench to turn the crank counter-clockwise, as viewed from the left side.

Rotate until each point is at its widest opening, then use a feeler gauge to set the point gap on both sides to about 0.013", or so.

Hook up your test light as shown below, and turn the ignition key ON.
(The other lead of the test light is connected to a ground, off camera.)

Put your finger into the Left spark plug hole, plugging it.

As you turn the engine over with your wrench, you’ll feel/hear the air being compressed in the cylinder as it approaches the top of compression stroke.
You want to align the “LF” mark on the rotor with the index mark on the coil/stator.

The Left point should open and the little light should come on EXACTLY when the “LF” mark aligns with the index mark.
Loosen and turn the entire point plate to do this (LEFT side ONLY), do NOT change the point gap.

Yes, it is normal for the engine to try to “run by” the mark as you approach the top of the stroke.
And it’s not considered good to turn the engine backwards (clockwise, viewed from the left).
So this is something that takes a little practice, and patience.
Things may move a little bit while tightening - check and double-check everything.

When you’re convinced the left side is ok, move on to the right side.
Move the clip on your little test lamp to the right side point.
If you turn the engine exactly 180 degrees from where you were for the left side, you find another pair of marks on the alternator, “F” and “T”.
Now we want the right side point to open EXACTLY when the “F” mark lines up with the indicator.
However for the RIGHT side points, we do that by ADJUSTING THE GAP.
Change the point gap to wherever it needs to go, so that the light comes on exactly at the “F” mark.
The point gap will still hopefully be somewhere in the acceptable range - but do not set it with a feeler after this point, it will change the right side timing.

If the right side gap ends up being outside spec (0.3-0.4 mm), then adjust the left gap to max or min spec, re-time the left by turning the plate - then re-time the right by changing the gap, and check to see if it’s somewhere within specs.
You may have to do it several times.

If it just doesn’t seem to happen, replace the points.

Strobe Timing

You obviously need a strobe for this - as you observe the timing marks on the rotor (engine running), you’ll notice the timing “advance” to somewhere between the two “advance” marks on the rotor - this as about 3,500-4,000 rpm is hit.

Yes, there will be oil spray and some leakage.

Depending upon your application, you may want to favor one “side” of the marks or the other.
For instance, racers don’t even care if their bike idles, they’re always at max rpm.

If you static time your Twin, but notice the strobe isn’t showing proper advance, then the advancer is goofy.
Now, lots of stuff can go wrong with advancer units.
They can get dirty and stick - they can stick open, closed, in-between, or just be “sticky”......
And this usually happens when it’s been running and is very hot, too hot to mess with it, or even check it.

The springs can get worn out - that would cause the advancer to kick in too soon, at a lower rpm.
Some folks shorten the springs slightly, but there’s the danger of too much tension on the springs, which means the advancer would kick in too late, at a higher rpm, and might not advance fully at all.

I’ve seen folks manipulate the little tabs in this photo - usually they add a bit of shim inside it so the tab physically stops the advancer weights at a particular point.

On a practical level, I’m more concerned with ultra-snappy throttle response, and on a 450 that comes from a simple static timing routine. I check the advance with a strobe once in a great while on 450's, just to see if it’s actually working.
350's on the other hand, respond best to a strobe tune, advised.